The Submariner Stripped to Its Essence
The Rolex Submariner No-Date (Ref. 124060) is the Submariner with everything non-essential removed: no date window, no Cyclops lens, no compromise. The dial is perfectly symmetrical. The crystal sits flush against the bezel without a magnification bubble. The Cal. 3230 (identical to the date version’s 3235, minus the date module) runs with the same 70-hour reserve and Superlative Chronometer accuracy. It costs $1,150 less than the date version. And among serious Rolex collectors, it’s the preferred reference.
Why No Date?
Three reasons purists choose the 124060:
- Dial symmetry: Without the date window at 3 o’clock, the dial is balanced. The 12-3-6-9 positions all have matching markers. The Sub no-date has the most harmonious dial in the Rolex Professional catalog.
- Crystal purity: Without the Cyclops lens, the sapphire crystal is a clean, uninterrupted dome. From a design perspective, the Cyclops is Rolex’s most polarizing feature — you either love it or tolerate it. The no-date removes the debate.
- Historical authenticity: The original 1953 Submariner (Ref. 6204) had no date. The no-date Sub is closer to Rolex’s original vision for the watch. Date-equipped Submariners didn’t appear until the Ref. 1680 in 1969 — 16 years after the original.
Specifications
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Case | 41mm × 11.9mm, 904L Oystersteel |
| Movement | Cal. 3230 (70h, Chronergy, Parachrom) |
| Bezel | Cerachrom ceramic, unidirectional, 60-min |
| Crystal | Sapphire, flat (NO Cyclops) |
| Dial | Black with luminous Chromalight markers |
| Bracelet | Oyster with Glidelock (2mm micro-adjust, 20mm range) |
| WR | 300m / 1,000ft |
| Retail | $9,100 |
| Secondary | $12,000-$13,500 |
124060 vs 126610LN (Date)
| Factor | No-Date (124060) | Date (126610LN) |
|---|---|---|
| Date Window | None | 3 o’clock + Cyclops |
| Movement | Cal. 3230 | Cal. 3235 |
| Thickness | 11.9mm | 12.5mm |
| Retail | $9,100 | $10,250 |
| Secondary | $12,000-$13,500 | $13,500-$14,500 |
| Collector Preference | Purists, designers, minimalists | Practical wearers, mainstream |
The no-date is 0.6mm thinner (no date mechanism), $1,150 cheaper, and trades at a slightly lower secondary premium. The date version is more popular overall (most buyers want the date function) and trades slightly higher. Neither is “better” — it’s a philosophical choice.
The “One Watch” Argument for the 124060
If you could own exactly one watch, many collectors would choose the 124060:
- ✅ Dive watch (300m, ceramic bezel)
- ✅ Dress watch (the clean dial pairs with suits)
- ✅ Tool watch (Glidelock, screw-down crown, Chromalight)
- ✅ Travel watch (the bezel functions as an elapsed-time tracker)
- ✅ Investment (Rolex, steel, sports model — strong appreciation history)
The no-date Submariner is the Swiss Army knife of luxury watches — it does everything adequately and several things excellently.
Frequently Asked Questions
Don’t I need a date?
In 2026, your phone shows the date. Your computer shows the date. Your car shows the date. The date window on a watch is a convenience, not a necessity. Many no-date owners report that after one week, they never miss it — and they appreciate the cleaner dial every single day.
Is the no-date harder to buy at retail?
Slightly easier than the date — the 124060 has shorter waiting lists at most ADs because it’s less popular with mainstream buyers. This is one of the no-date’s hidden advantages: you may actually get one faster.
Do you carry the no-date Sub?
Yes — our Submariner collection at DR.WATCH includes both date and no-date references. 904L Oystersteel, Cerachrom bezel, Swiss automatic movement with 70-hour reserve spec. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.