The Birth of the Wristwatch: Paris, 1904
In 1904, Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont had a problem. While piloting his dirigibles over Paris, he couldn’t check the time — pulling a pocket watch from his vest while controlling an aircraft with both hands was impossible. He complained to his friend Louis Cartier over dinner at Maxim’s restaurant.
Cartier’s solution: a flat watch with a square case, fixed to a leather strap, designed to be read at a glance on the wrist. It was radical — men didn’t wear wristwatches in 1904. They were considered jewelry for women. Santos-Dumont wore his publicly, and the concept caught on among Parisian society. The Santos de Cartier is, by most historical accounts, the first purpose-designed men’s wristwatch ever made.
From Prototype to Production: 1911-1978
Cartier began commercial production of the Santos in 1911, initially as a gold dress watch for the Parisian elite. It remained in production through the Art Deco era but was always a boutique piece — small volumes, precious metals only.
The watch gained a second cultural life in the 1970s when Cartier commissioned a steel-and-gold version: the Santos de Cartier Galbée (1978). The Galbée introduced the now-iconic combination of polished steel, yellow gold screws, and an integrated bracelet. It was Cartier’s answer to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — a luxury sports watch that could be dressed up or down.
The Santos 100: Going Big (2004)
For the centennial, Cartier released the Santos 100 — a supersized 51.1mm × 41.3mm version that rode the mid-2000s oversized watch trend. It was polarizing: purists hated the proportions, but it sold enormously well in markets like the Middle East, Russia, and hip-hop culture. The Santos 100 with black ADLC (amorphous diamond-like carbon) coating became a red-carpet staple.
Alongside the 100, Cartier also released the Santos Demoiselle (women’s) and Santos Dumont (the ultra-thin dress variant), expanding the Santos into a full family of watches.
The 2018 Revolution: Santos de Cartier (WSSA0009/WSSA0010)
In 2018, Cartier did something bold: they retired the Galbée and Santos 100 entirely and launched a completely redesigned Santos. The new watch was a game-changer:
QuickSwitch System
A push-button mechanism on the back of the bracelet/strap allows instant switching between the steel bracelet and a leather or rubber strap — no tools required. It takes under 10 seconds. This was the first time a luxury watch brand integrated a truly usable strap-change system at the factory level, predating the Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron strap-change mechanisms.
SmartLink Bracelet
Cartier’s SmartLink system allows the wearer to add or remove bracelet links using a simple push-pin mechanism — no jeweler visit needed. Each link clicks in and out individually. For a brand historically associated with boutique service, this was a radical democratization of bracelet sizing.
Sizing: Medium (35.1mm) and Large (39.8mm)
Cartier wisely offered two sizes, both thinner than predecessors:
| Spec | Medium (WSSA0029) | Large (WSSA0009) |
|---|---|---|
| Case Width | 35.1mm | 39.8mm |
| Case Height | 41.9mm | 47.5mm |
| Thickness | 8.83mm | 9.08mm |
| Movement | Caliber 1847 MC | Caliber 1847 MC |
| Power Reserve | 40 hours | 40 hours |
| Retail | $7,050 | $7,650 |
The Caliber 1847 MC
Cartier’s in-house automatic movement with a decorated rotor featuring the Cartier “C” motif. At 40 hours of power reserve and 28,800 vph frequency, it’s a workmanlike movement — not as technically impressive as the competition from Rolex (70 hours) or Tudor (70 hours), but perfectly reliable for daily wear.
Santos de Cartier Dumont: The Ultra-Thin Alternative
For those who prefer the original Santos-Dumont aesthetic — rectangular, ultra-thin, on a leather strap — Cartier continues the Santos-Dumont line. At just 7.3mm thick and powered by a quartz movement (or hand-wound Caliber 430 MC in the “Extra Large” version), the Dumont is Cartier’s most elegant watch. Prices start at $3,600 for quartz and $6,300 for manual-wind.
The Santos vs the Competition
The 2018 Santos competes directly with:
- Omega Aqua Terra 38mm: More “sports” in character, co-axial movement. $5,700.
- Rolex Datejust 36: The eternal comparison. More conservative, more recognizable. $8,250.
- IWC Portugieser Automatic 40: Dressier, round case. $8,100.
- Tudor Royal 41: Budget alternative with similar sizing. $2,750.
The Santos wins on design uniqueness (nothing else on the market looks remotely like it), strap-change convenience (QuickSwitch is best-in-class), and cultural cachet (the “first wristwatch” heritage is powerful). It loses on movement technology (40-hour reserve is dated) and water resistance (100m vs 300m for dive-oriented competitors).
Frequently Asked Questions
Medium or Large Santos — which should I buy?
The Medium (35.1mm) fits wrists 5.5″-7″. The Large (39.8mm) fits wrists 6.5″-8.5″. Because the Santos case is square, it wears larger than a round watch of equivalent width. If in doubt, go Medium — it looks better on most wrists than the Large.
Is the Santos a men’s or women’s watch?
Both. The Medium is popular with both men and women; the Large skews male. The Santos-Dumont collection includes specific women’s references in smaller sizing. Cartier deliberately positions the Santos as gender-neutral, which is historically accurate — Santos-Dumont himself was known for his androgynous Parisian style.
Does the Santos hold its value?
The steel Santos holds value well — pre-owned Larges trade at $5,800-$6,500, roughly 75-85% of retail. This is better than average for non-Rolex steel watches. The steel-and-gold two-tone version depreciates slightly more.
Why choose Santos over a Tank?
The Santos is a sports watch with integrated bracelet and QuickSwitch versatility. The Tank is a dress watch — leather strap only, thinner, more formal. If you need one watch for everything from the gym to a board meeting, Santos. If you have a sports watch already and need a pure dress piece, Tank. Read our Tank deep-dive.
Do you carry Santos superclones?
Yes — our Cartier collection at DR.WATCH includes the Santos in both Medium and Large with the QuickSwitch system, steel bracelet + leather strap, and Swiss automatic movements. Free worldwide shipping and 1-year warranty.