Tag Heuer Monaco: Steve McQueen’s Watch and the Square Chronograph Legend

The Watch That Broke Every Rule

In 1969, Jack Heuer (great-grandson of founder Edouard Heuer) broke three watchmaking conventions simultaneously: he created an automatic chronograph (the first — tied with Zenith’s El Primero and the Chronomatic consortium), put it in a square case (unprecedented for a sports chronograph), and placed the crown on the left side at 9 o’clock (functionally logical but aesthetically shocking). He named it after the Monaco Grand Prix — the most glamorous race on the Formula 1 calendar.

The watch community was skeptical. Then Steve McQueen wore a Monaco in the 1971 film Le Mans, and everything changed.

The Le Mans Connection

Steve McQueen was a genuine racing enthusiast — he competed in the 12 Hours of Sebring in 1970, finishing 9th overall (2nd in class). When filming Le Mans, he insisted on wearing authentic racing gear, including the Heuer Monaco on his wrist. The combination of McQueen’s effortless cool, the blue dial’s photogenic quality on 35mm film, and the racing context created one of the most powerful watch-celebrity associations in history.

McQueen wore a Ref. 1133B — the blue-dial variant with a Caliber 11 automatic chronograph. That specific reference is now known simply as “the Steve McQueen Monaco” and vintage examples fetch $50,000-$150,000 at auction. The original prop watch from the film sold for $799,500 at Phillips in 2020.

The Crown at 9 O’Clock: Function Over Convention

The Monaco’s left-side crown isn’t arbitrary — it’s because the Caliber 11 (and later Caliber 12) automatic movements have the winding stem on the left side of the movement. Rather than adding a transfer mechanism to move the crown to the conventional right side (which would increase thickness), Heuer embraced the left-side position. For right-handed chronograph users, the left crown is actually ergonomically superior: you operate the chrono pushers (at 2 and 4 o’clock on the right) with your right thumb without reaching over the crown.

Current Monaco References

Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 (CBL2111.BA0644)

• Case: 39mm × 39mm × 15.6mm, 316L steel
• Movement: Calibre Heuer 02 (in-house automatic chronograph, column wheel, 80-hour reserve)
• Dial: Blue sunburst with silver sub-registers
• Crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective both sides
• Crown: Left side (9 o’clock)
• Pushers: Right side (2 and 4 o’clock)
• WR: 100m
• Strap: Black calfskin leather with blue stitching
• Retail: ~$7,500

The current blue Monaco is the definitive “Steve McQueen” tribute — same blue dial, left-side crown, square case — but with TAG’s modern Heuer 02 in-house chronograph (a massive upgrade over the vintage Cal. 11/12). The 80-hour power reserve is best-in-class for chronograph movements at this price.

Monaco Gulf Edition (CBL2115.FC6494)

The Gulf livery — powder blue and orange — is the most iconic color scheme in motorsport, worn by the Porsche 917 that won Le Mans in 1970 and 1971. TAG Heuer’s Gulf Edition Monaco brings those colors to the dial: light blue with an orange racing stripe. It’s loud, it’s unapologetic, and it sells out every production run. Retail: ~$7,800.

Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 — Black Dial (CBL2113.BA0644)

For those who want the Monaco’s distinctive shape without the McQueen-blue commitment. The black dial with grey sub-registers reads as sportier and more versatile with dark wardrobes. Same Heuer 02 movement, same specs. Retail: ~$7,500.

The Square Case: Engineering Challenge

Round cases are structurally stronger because they distribute pressure evenly. Square cases concentrate stress at the corners, making water resistance significantly harder to achieve. The original 1969 Monaco solved this with a mono-block case — the movement sat in a single piece of steel with a snap-on caseback, sealed with a compression gasket at each corner. This made it one of the first square watches rated to 100m.

The modern Monaco maintains the square case tradition but with updated construction: a screw-on sapphire caseback provides better sealing and movement visibility. The 100m rating is maintained through improved corner gaskets and crown sealing.

Monaco vs Cartier Santos: Two Squares Compared

These are the two great square watches under $10,000. The Monaco is a statement piece for racing and chronograph lovers. The Santos is an everyday all-rounder with bracelet versatility. They’re complementary — owning both covers every non-round-case situation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Monaco comfortable with a square case?

Yes — the case corners are rounded and the 39mm footprint isn’t much larger than a conventional 39mm round watch. The 15.6mm thickness (due to the chronograph movement) is the bigger comfort consideration: it’s a thick watch that sits high on the wrist. Pairing with a thin strap (not bracelet) helps.

Why no bracelet option?

The Monaco has always been a strap watch — the square case doesn’t lend itself to integrated bracelet design the way the Santos or Royal Oak does. TAG has experimented with steel bracelets on special editions, but they’ve never felt as natural as the leather strap. The leather strap is part of the Monaco’s identity.

Did Steve McQueen actually buy a Monaco?

McQueen was given multiple Monacos by Heuer for the Le Mans film production — they were props, not personal purchases. Whether he wore one off-set is debated. Regardless, the McQueen association is the most valuable celebrity watch endorsement in history — it single-handedly saved the Monaco from discontinuation in the 1970s and continues to drive sales 50+ years later.

Do you carry Monaco superclones?

Browse our chronograph collection at DR.WATCH for square-case and racing-inspired chronographs. Working chronograph movements, distinctive dial configurations, and quality leather straps. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.