73 Years of the World’s Most Iconic Watch
The Rolex Submariner is not just a watch — it’s a cultural artifact. Since 1953, it has defined what a dive watch should be, survived multiple design evolutions while remaining instantly recognizable, and become the most referenced, most copied, and most desired watch in luxury horology. Here’s every chapter of its story.
The Timeline
1953: The Beginning (Ref. 6204)
The first Submariner: 37mm case, rotating bezel (bidirectional — not yet unidirectional), 100m water resistance, Cal. A260 automatic. Introduced at the Basel Fair alongside the Explorer. The small “Mercedes” hands with luminous markers established the visual language that persists today.
1955: The Upgrade (Ref. 6536/6538)
The Ref. 6538 “Big Crown” — 38mm with an oversized 8mm crown (no crown guards). This is the Submariner James Bond wore in Dr. No. Water resistance improved to 200m. The 6538 is now the most valuable vintage Submariner ($200,000-$500,000).
1959: The Template (Ref. 5512/5513)
The case grew to 40mm — a size that would remain standard for 61 years. Crown guards were added for the first time, creating the iconic case profile. The Ref. 5513 (no-date) became the most-produced vintage Submariner and remains the most-collected vintage Rolex reference.
1966: The Date (Ref. 1680)
The first Submariner with a date window + Cyclops lens. The “Red Sub” (1680 with “SUBMARINER” in red text on the dial) is one of the most collectible vintage references. Production: 1966-1979.
1979: The Sapphire Era (Ref. 16800)
Sapphire crystal replaced acrylic, Triplock crown replaced Twinlock, and water resistance jumped to 300m. The 16800 began the “modern” Submariner era — visually similar to today’s reference. Cal. 3035 with quick-set date.
1989: The 3135 (Ref. 16610)
Cal. 3135 introduced — the movement that powered the Submariner for 31 years (1989-2020). 48-hour reserve, COSC certified, blue Parachrom hairspring. The 16610 is the most-produced, most-traded, and most-serviced Submariner in history. Green-bezel variant “Kermit” (16610LV, 2003-2010) became a cult classic.
2010: The Cerachrom (Ref. 116610)
Cerachrom ceramic bezel replaced aluminum — scratch-proof, fade-proof, and with platinum-filled numerals. The “Maxi case” with wider lugs and crown guards added heft. The all-green “Hulk” (116610LV) became the most hyped Submariner of its era.
2020: The Current Generation (Ref. 126610)
The first case size change in 61 years: 40mm → 41mm. Cal. 3235 with 70-hour reserve, Chronergy escapement, Superlative Chronometer certification. The “Starbucks” (126610LV, green bezel/black dial) replaced the Hulk. Slimmer lugs and broader bracelet improve comfort despite the size increase.
What Makes the Submariner Timeless
The Submariner has evolved dramatically — 37mm to 41mm, bidirectional to unidirectional bezel, acrylic to sapphire, aluminum to ceramic, 100m to 300m — yet a 2026 Sub is instantly recognizable as a descendant of the 1953 original. This is Rolex’s genius: evolving every component while preserving the visual DNA. The Mercedes hands, the triangle-at-12 bezel marker, the Oyster case proportions, and the black dial with luminous markers have been constant for 73 years.
Browse Our Submariner Collection
Our Submariner collection at DR.WATCH spans every era’s aesthetic — from vintage-inspired no-date references to the current 126610LN and green Starbucks. 904L Oystersteel, Cerachrom-spec ceramic bezels, Swiss automatic movements. Every color. Every variant. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.