From Italian Air Force to Modern Classic
In 1984, Breitling introduced the Chronomat to celebrate a new partnership with the Frecce Tricolori — the Italian Air Force’s aerobatic display team. The original was a bold chronograph with a distinctive “rider tab” rotating bezel (four raised markers at the cardinal points that could be gripped with gloved fingers). It became Breitling’s best-selling watch through the 1990s and 2000s, outselling even the Navitimer.
The current Chronomat (relaunched 2020) modernizes the design with the B01 in-house chronograph movement, updated proportions, and a rouleaux-style bracelet that gives it a character distinct from both the Navitimer and Superocean.
The Rouleaux Bracelet
The Chronomat’s most distinctive feature isn’t on the dial — it’s the bracelet. The rouleaux (French: “rolls”) bracelet uses barrel-shaped links instead of flat ones, creating a rounded, almost organic chain-like appearance. It drapes over the wrist differently than any flat-link bracelet, and the alternating polished/brushed barrels catch light in a distinctive way.
The rouleaux is the Chronomat’s visual signature — without it, the watch could be any number of steel chronographs. With it, it’s unmistakably Breitling.
Specifications: Chronomat B01 42
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Case | 42mm × 15.1mm, 316L steel |
| Movement | Caliber B01 (in-house automatic chronograph) |
| Chronograph | Column wheel, vertical clutch |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Crystal | Sapphire, cambered, AR-coated both sides |
| Bezel | Unidirectional, with 4 rider tabs |
| WR | 200m |
| Bracelet | Rouleaux (steel) or rubber/leather strap |
| Retail | ~$8,500 (bracelet) / ~$7,800 (strap) |
The B01 Movement
Breitling’s Caliber B01 is one of the best in-house chronograph movements in the industry. Introduced in 2009 after 5 years of development, it features:
- Column wheel: The traditional “premium” chronograph switching mechanism, providing crisp pusher feel
- Vertical clutch: Eliminates the seconds-hand stutter seen in horizontal-clutch chronographs when the chrono starts
- 70-hour power reserve: Exceptional for a chronograph movement (most chronos achieve 42-55 hours)
- COSC certified: Every B01 is individually chronometer-certified
- Modular service: The chronograph module can be serviced independently of the base movement, reducing service cost and turnaround
The B01 appears across Breitling’s lineup — Navitimer, Chronomat, Premier, Avenger — making it one of the most produced in-house chronograph movements in Switzerland. Volume production has allowed Breitling to refine reliability over 15+ years and millions of units.
Chronomat vs Navitimer: Which Breitling?
| Factor | Chronomat B01 | Navitimer B01 |
|---|---|---|
| Bezel | Rider tabs (dive-style) | Slide rule (aviation calculator) |
| Dial | Clean, 3 sub-registers | Busy (slide rule + 3 sub-registers) |
| Bracelet | Rouleaux (unique) | 7-row metal or leather |
| WR | 200m | 30m |
| Size | 42mm | 41mm or 43mm |
| Character | Sporty, versatile | Aviation, technical |
| Price | ~$8,500 | ~$8,500 |
The Chronomat is the Breitling for people who want a sports chronograph that works with jeans AND a suit. The Navitimer is the Breitling for aviation purists who want the slide rule heritage. Both use the same B01 movement — the choice is purely aesthetic and lifestyle.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Chronomat a dive watch?
With 200m water resistance and a unidirectional rotating bezel, it technically qualifies. But the rider-tab bezel is designed for timing, not dive-table reference. It’s a sports watch that happens to be swim-safe, not a purpose-built diver like the Superocean.
Is the rouleaux bracelet comfortable?
Very — the barrel-shaped links conform to the wrist naturally. The clasp includes a folding micro-adjustment for fine-tuning. Some owners find the rouleaux slightly heavier than flat-link designs, which is either a positive (substantial feel) or negative (weight fatigue) depending on preference.
Does Breitling hold value?
The Chronomat B01 trades at $5,500-$7,000 pre-owned (65-82% of retail). This is typical for non-Rolex Swiss chronographs and represents good value for an in-house column-wheel movement. Breitling is a “buy and wear” brand, not a “buy and flip” brand.
Do you carry Chronomat?
Browse our Breitling collection at DR.WATCH for Chronomat, Navitimer, and Superocean Heritage references. Working chronograph movements, correct bracelet designs, and Swiss-spec build quality. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.
