From Outsourced to In-House: Hublot’s Quiet Revolution
When Jean-Claude Biver took over Hublot in 2004, the brand was a minor player using outsourced ETA movements. Biver’s genius was twofold: the Big Bang design language (launched 2005) and the decision to invest heavily in in-house manufacturing. The result, after six years of development, was the Caliber HUB1242 “UNICO” — Hublot’s first in-house automatic chronograph, and the movement that transformed the Big Bang from a fashion statement into a horological contender.
The HUB1242 UNICO Movement
First deployed in the Big Bang UNICO (2013), the HUB1242 is a 330-component flyback chronograph with column wheel and 72-hour power reserve. Key specifications:
- Type: Automatic flyback chronograph
- Components: 330
- Jewels: 38
- Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Power Reserve: 72 hours (twin barrels)
- Chronograph coupling: Column wheel with vertical clutch
- Flyback function: Yes — reset and restart with a single pusher press
- Diameter: 30mm
- Thickness: 8.05mm
The Dial-Side Chronograph
What makes the UNICO visually distinctive is that the chronograph mechanism is visible from the dial side — not hidden on the movement side as in most chronographs. The column wheel and levers are exposed through the skeletal dial, allowing the wearer to watch the mechanism engage when pressing the chronograph pushers. This was a deliberate design decision: Hublot wanted owners to see the in-house engineering they were paying for.
Key Big Bang UNICO References
Big Bang UNICO Titanium (Ref. 441.NX.1170.RX)
The entry-level UNICO in Grade 5 titanium. At 42mm, the current generation shrunk from the original’s 45mm — a response to market demand for more wearable sizing. Titanium is 40% lighter than steel, making the Big Bang surprisingly comfortable for a 42mm chronograph. Retail: ~$20,000.
Big Bang UNICO King Gold (Ref. 441.OX.1180.RX)
Hublot’s proprietary 18ct gold alloy — King Gold uses 5% platinum to resist fading and maintain a rich, warm tone over decades. The combination of King Gold case, ceramic bezel, and skeleton UNICO dial is the most visually impactful Big Bang. Retail: ~$36,000.
Big Bang UNICO Magic Gold (Ref. 441.MX.1170.RX)
Magic Gold is Hublot’s patented scratch-resistant 18ct gold — created by infusing molten gold into a porous ceramic matrix under high pressure. The result: a material that looks and feels like gold but resists scratches like ceramic. It’s rated 1000 Vickers hardness (conventional gold is 400). This is Hublot’s most important materials innovation and you can’t get it anywhere else in watchmaking. Retail: ~$42,000.
Big Bang UNICO Sapphire (Ref. 441.JX.4802.RT)
A case machined entirely from sapphire crystal — transparent, allowing a 360° view of the UNICO movement. Sapphire is the second-hardest material after diamond (9 on the Mohs scale) but extremely difficult to machine — each case takes 100+ hours of CNC work. Only produced in limited quantities. Retail: ~$50,000.
“The Art of Fusion” — Understanding Hublot’s Material Philosophy
Hublot’s tagline isn’t just marketing. The brand has genuinely pioneered more case materials than any competitor:
- Magic Gold: Scratch-proof 18ct gold (2012)
- King Gold: Platinum-enriched 18ct gold (2012)
- Texalium: Aluminum-coated carbon fiber (2014)
- Sapphire crystal cases: Fully transparent (2016)
- Ceramic: In multiple colors including red (unique to Hublot)
- Linen composite: Flax fiber in resin matrix (2018)
- Saxem: Sapphire-aluminum oxide-rare earth composite (2021)
No other watch brand — not Rolex, not Patek, not AP — matches this breadth of materials research. Love or hate Hublot’s design language, their R&D output is objectively world-class.
UNICO vs the Competition
| Watch | Movement | Reserve | Chronograph Type | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hublot UNICO Ti | HUB1242 (in-house) | 72h | Flyback | $20,000 |
| Rolex Daytona Steel | Cal. 4130 (in-house) | 72h | Standard | $15,000 |
| Omega Speedmaster | Cal. 3861 (in-house) | 50h | Standard | $6,400 |
| Zenith El Primero | Cal. 3600 (in-house) | 60h | Standard | $9,500 |
| TAG Heuer Monaco | Cal. Heuer 02 (in-house) | 80h | Standard | $7,500 |
The UNICO is the only flyback in this group — a complication that allows resetting and restarting the chronograph with a single pusher press, without stopping first. In competitive timing (motorsport, sailing), this is a meaningful functional advantage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the UNICO movement reliable?
Yes. After initial teething issues in 2013-2015 (some reports of column-wheel misalignment), Hublot refined the HUB1242 through multiple iterations. The current version is stable and well-regarded by independent watchmakers. Recommended service interval: 5 years.
Is 42mm the right size for Big Bang UNICO?
The 42mm is much more wearable than the original 45mm, but it’s still a thick watch (14.5mm) due to the chronograph movement. If you have a wrist under 6.5 inches, consider the Big Bang Integral (39mm) or Spirit of Big Bang (42mm tonneau) for a slimmer profile.
Why is Hublot controversial among watch collectors?
Hublot polarizes because of aggressive marketing (sports sponsorships, celebrity ambassadors) and high price points relative to brand heritage. Founded in 1980 (young by Swiss standards), Hublot lacks the century-long provenance of competitors. However, their material science and in-house movement development is genuinely innovative — the criticism often comes from collectors who prioritize heritage over engineering.
Do you carry Big Bang superclones?
Yes — our Hublot collection at DR.WATCH includes Big Bang UNICO references with working chronograph movements, ceramic bezels, and titanium or steel cases. The signature skeleton dial with exposed mechanism is faithfully reproduced. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.