The Most Famous Watch Partnership in Cinema
When Sean Connery strapped a Rolex Submariner to his wrist for 1962’s Dr. No, he created the most powerful watch-celebrity association in history. For the next 33 years and 17 films, James Bond wore Rolex — cementing the Submariner as the definitive gentleman-spy accessory. Then, in 1995, everything changed: Bond switched to Omega. Here’s the complete timeline.
Sean Connery Era (1962-1967)
Dr. No (1962) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 “Big Crown”
The watch that started it all. The Ref. 6538 featured a 38mm case, oversized 8mm crown (earning the “Big Crown” nickname), black gilt dial, and a nylon NATO strap — not the Oyster bracelet. In Ian Fleming’s novels, Bond wore a “heavy Rolex Oyster Perpetual” on a striped NATO strap, and the 6538 matched this description perfectly.
Whether Connery’s actual screen-worn watch was a genuine 6538 or a cheaper Ref. 6536/1 (the debate continues among prop collectors) doesn’t matter — the visual association between Bond and the Submariner was established in the first frame.
Today, a genuine 6538 Big Crown in good condition sells for $200,000-$500,000 at auction. The screen-worn prop (if it ever surfaces) would likely exceed $1 million.
From Russia with Love (1963) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538
Same watch, same NATO strap. The 6538 appears prominently in the Orient Express fight scene and the boat chase sequence. Bond uses the rotating bezel to time a countdown — one of the few on-screen demonstrations of a dive bezel’s actual function.
Goldfinger (1964) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 or 5510
Prop records are inconsistent, but the watch visible on screen matches either the 6538 or the 5510 (a similar Big Crown variant). The iconic gold-painted scene — where Bond is strapped to a table with a laser approaching his crotch — shows the Submariner clearly on his left wrist.
Thunderball (1965) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 + Geiger Counter
Bond’s Submariner is fitted with a Geiger counter by Q Branch — the first “gadget watch” in the franchise. The actual prop used a standard Submariner case with a modified dial incorporating a radiation meter. Thunderball contains the most underwater screen time of any Bond film, making the Submariner’s dive-watch credentials visually relevant for the first time.
You Only Live Twice (1967) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
Connery switched to the no-date Ref. 5513 for his fifth Bond film. The 5513 had a smaller crown (standard 6mm) and a matte dial — more refined than the rugged 6538. The transition was likely practical (prop availability) rather than intentional.
George Lazenby (1969)
On Her Majesty’s Secret Service — Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
Lazenby’s single Bond film featured the same Ref. 5513. The watch appears during the ski chase and the climactic bobsled sequence. Lazenby also wore a Rolex Chronograph (Pre-Daytona) in several scenes — a rare non-Submariner Rolex appearance in the franchise.
Roger Moore Era (1973-1985)
Live and Let Die (1973) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
Moore’s debut featured the 5513 with a significant gadget modification: a magnetic field generator strong enough to deflect a bullet and unzip a woman’s dress. The watch also contained a miniature circular saw that cut through rope. Pure Q Branch fantasy, but it looked cool on screen.
The Spy Who Loved Me (1977) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
Bond uses the Submariner as a ticker-tape message receiver — a label printer hidden inside the watch spits out printed messages from MI6. The Ref. 5513 was Moore’s standard Bond watch across multiple films.
Note: Seiko Intrusion
Starting with The Spy Who Loved Me, Moore’s Bond also wore Seiko digital watches for certain gadget scenes (the Seiko 0674 LC communication watch). This was the beginning of the end for Rolex’s Bond exclusivity — product placement deals with Seiko provided gadget functionality that Rolex’s mechanical watches couldn’t offer.
Timothy Dalton Era (1987-1989)
The Living Daylights (1987) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610
Dalton wore the then-current Submariner Date (Ref. 16610) with sapphire crystal and date cyclops. The 16610 was a modern update: slimmer case than the 5513, upgraded Cal. 3135 movement, and the Triplock crown system. Dalton’s Bond was grittier than Moore’s, and the more refined 16610 matched the darker tone.
Licence to Kill (1989) — Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610
Same Ref. 16610. This was the final Bond film to feature a Rolex — ending a 27-year, 16-film partnership. The reason for the split: Omega reportedly paid $40 million+ for the GoldenEye placement in 1995, outbidding Rolex, who declined to pay for product placement (Rolex’s longstanding policy — they don’t pay for placements).
The Switch to Omega (1995-Present)
Pierce Brosnan’s Bond wore an Omega Seamaster 300M (Ref. 2541.80) in GoldenEye (1995) — the first non-Rolex Bond watch in 33 years. Omega has held the Bond license since, through Brosnan’s four films and Daniel Craig’s five. The current Bond watch is the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (Ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001) in titanium.
For the definitive Bond Omega guide, see our Omega article.
Frequently Asked Questions
Did Ian Fleming specify Rolex in the novels?
Yes — in Casino Royale (1953), Fleming wrote that Bond wore “a heavy Rolex Oyster Perpetual on a thick expansion bracelet.” Later novels mention Bond’s “Rolex with the expanding bracelet” multiple times. Fleming himself wore a Rolex Explorer (and later a Submariner).
Why did Rolex let Bond go?
Rolex has never officially commented. The prevailing theory: Rolex doesn’t pay for product placement — their brand is valuable enough that productions approach them. When Omega offered a reported $40+ million deal for GoldenEye, Eon Productions took the money. Rolex could have matched but chose not to — consistent with their policy of earned (not purchased) placement.
Will Rolex ever return to Bond?
Unlikely while Omega’s contract holds. The franchise is too lucrative for Omega to release. However, in the event of a complete Bond reboot (new actor, new studio, new vision), all bets are off.
Can I buy a “Bond” Submariner?
Vintage 6538s cost $200,000+. The closest affordable equivalent: our Submariner collection at DR.WATCH includes vintage-inspired references with the Big Crown aesthetic, NATO strap compatibility, and 904L Oystersteel construction. Experience the Bond look at a fraction of the auction price. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.
