Before the Nautilus, There Was the 222
The horological timeline usually goes: Royal Oak (1972), then Nautilus (1976). But there’s a missing chapter: the Vacheron Constantin 222, launched in 1977. Designed by Jorg Hysek for Vacheron’s 222nd anniversary, it was a Maltese-cross-bezel integrated-bracelet sports watch in steel — a direct response to the Royal Oak and a clear influence on what Patek’s Nautilus would become. The 222 was the third member of an unofficial trinity of 1970s luxury sports watches, and for 45 years, it was the most forgotten.
Then, in September 2022, Vacheron brought it back.
The Original 222 (1977-1985)
The 1977 Ref. 44018 was radical for Vacheron: a 37mm steel sports watch from a brand known exclusively for gold dress watches. Features:
- Case: 37mm, steel (later gold), slim profile (~7.5mm)
- Bezel: Maltese cross at 12, 3, 6, 9 o’clock — Vacheron’s logo integrated into the case design
- Dial: Blue, textured with horizontal lines (sound familiar? The Nautilus uses the same concept)
- Movement: Caliber 1120 (based on JLC 920 — the same ultra-thin movement Patek used in the early Nautilus)
- Bracelet: Integrated, polished/brushed steel links
Only ~500 were produced. Vintage 222s now fetch $50,000-$150,000 at auction — comparable to vintage Nautilus pricing.
The 2022 Historiques 222 (Ref. 4200H)
The reissue is a near-exact reproduction of the 1977 original:
- Case: 37mm × 6.85mm, 18ct yellow gold (no steel — Vacheron positioned it as ultra-luxury)
- Movement: Caliber 2455/2 (based on the same JLC 920 architecture as the original 1120, but updated with modern manufacturing)
- Power Reserve: 40 hours
- Dial: Blue “tonneau-guilloché” pattern — a horizontal texture that evokes both the original 222 and the Nautilus
- Bracelet: Integrated gold, faithful to the 1977 design
- Crystal: Sapphire (the original used mineral)
- WR: 30m (the original was 120m — reduced for the gold version)
- Retail: ~$52,000
- Secondary: $80,000-$120,000
Why Collectors Are Obsessed
- Historical significance: The 222 completes the 1970s luxury sports watch trinity. Owning a Royal Oak, Nautilus, AND 222 is the holy grail of sports-watch collecting.
- Ultra-thin at 6.85mm: The Historiques 222 is the thinnest integrated-bracelet luxury sports watch in current production — thinner than the Nautilus 5811 (8.2mm), Royal Oak 15500 (10.4mm), and Overseas 4500V (11mm).
- The JLC 920 connection: The Cal. 2455/2 is a descendant of the legendary JLC 920 — one of the thinnest automatic movements ever made. This same movement architecture powers the Patek Nautilus and the AP Royal Oak Jumbo. Wearing a 222 is wearing the same engine that powers its more famous siblings.
- Limited availability: Vacheron produces far fewer units than AP or Patek. The 222 is allocated exclusively to existing Vacheron clients — new buyers face multi-year waiting lists.
222 vs Nautilus vs Royal Oak
| Spec | VC 222 (4200H) | PP Nautilus 5811 | AP Royal Oak 15500 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Size | 37mm | 41mm | 41mm |
| Thickness | 6.85mm | 8.2mm | 10.4mm |
| Material | Gold only | Gold only | Steel or gold |
| Movement | 2455/2 (JLC base) | 26-330 SC | 4302 |
| Reserve | 40h | 60h | 60h |
| Retail | ~$52,000 | ~$58,000 | ~$27,000 (steel) |
Frequently Asked Questions
Will Vacheron make a steel 222?
Vacheron CEO Louis Ferla has hinted it’s possible but not confirmed. A steel 222 at ~$25,000-$30,000 would directly compete with the steel Royal Oak and could become the most sought-after sports watch under $30K. Watch this space.
Is the 222 worth $52,000?
In gold, with the Cal. 2455/2, at 6.85mm thin, from the world’s oldest watch manufacturer (est. 1755): yes, it’s competitive with the Nautilus 5811 ($58K) and significantly more exclusive. Whether any watch is “worth” $52K is philosophical — but within its competitive set, the 222 is fairly priced.
Do you carry Vacheron references?
Browse our premium collection at DR.WATCH for integrated-bracelet sports watches inspired by the Holy Trinity. Swiss automatic movements, correct case proportions, and elegant dial textures. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.

