Beyond the Cockpit
Breitling’s identity is aviation — the Navitimer, Avenger, and Chronomat are all cockpit-born instruments. But in 2018, Breitling CEO Georges Kern launched the Premier collection to address a different customer entirely: the buyer who wants Breitling’s movement quality and heritage without the pilot aesthetics. The Premier is Breitling’s dress/lifestyle collection — sleek, refined, and designed for board rooms rather than cockpits.
The Design Shift
The Premier abandons aviation cues entirely:
- No slide rule bezel (Navitimer)
- No rider tabs (Chronomat)
- No oversized crown (Avenger)
- No rotating bezel (Superocean)
Instead: thin polished cases, applied indices, alligator straps, and dials that reference 1940s Breitling dress watches (the original “Premier” name dates to 1943). It’s the Breitling that could pass for a JLC or IWC at a glance — until you see the Breitling wings on the dial and realize the movement inside is the same B01 that powers the Navitimer.
Key References
Premier Automatic 40 (A37340351B1P2)
- Case: 40mm × 10.45mm, 316L steel
- Movement: Breitling 37 (Sellita base, 56h reserve, COSC)
- Dial: Silver, blue, or pistachio green
- Strap: Alligator leather or steel bracelet
- WR: 100m
- Retail: ~$4,700
Premier B01 Chronograph 42 (AB0118A21B1P1)
- Case: 42mm × 14.4mm, steel
- Movement: Caliber B01 (in-house chrono, column wheel, 70h reserve, COSC)
- Dial: Panda (silver/black), reverse panda, copper, green
- Retail: ~$8,200
The B01 Premier is the collection’s star: the same elite in-house chronograph found in the $8,500 Navitimer, in a dressier case, for $300 less. It’s the best-kept secret in Breitling’s lineup.
Premier Bentley Mulliner Limited Edition
The Breitling × Bentley partnership produces special Premier editions with Bentley-inspired design elements: diamond-knurled pushers (referencing Bentley’s control knobs), British racing green dials, and Bentley logo at 12. Limited to 1,000 pieces per edition. Retail: ~$9,500.
Premier vs IWC Portugieser vs Longines Master
| Watch | Size | Movement | Reserve | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Breitling Premier 40 | 40mm | Cal. 37 (COSC) | 56h | $4,700 |
| IWC Portugieser Auto 40 | 40.4mm | Cal. 52010 (in-house) | 60h | $8,100 |
| Longines Master 40 | 40mm | L888 (COSC, silicon) | 72h | $2,375 |
The Premier sits between Longines (cheaper, longer reserve) and IWC (in-house movement, higher prestige). For the B01 chronograph at $8,200, it directly competes with the IWC Portugieser Chrono at $9,200 — offering a column-wheel chronograph with 70h reserve at $1,000 less.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Premier a “real” Breitling?
Yes — and historically, Breitling’s roots are actually in elegant chronographs, not pilot watches. The Navitimer didn’t appear until 1952; Breitling was founded in 1884 making pocket chronographs for doctors and scientists. The Premier is arguably more historically authentic than the Navitimer.
Does the Premier hold value?
The Premier 40 trades at $3,200-$3,800 pre-owned (68-81% of retail) — typical for Breitling. The B01 chrono trades at $5,500-$6,500 (67-79%). Both are “buy and wear” watches, not flips.
Do you carry Premier?
Browse our Breitling collection at DR.WATCH for Premier and Navitimer references. Swiss automatic and chronograph movements, elegant dial designs, and quality leather straps. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.
