When Breitling Made Dive Watches
Breitling is known for aviation — the Navitimer, Chronomat, and Avenger are all cockpit instruments. But in 1957, Breitling launched the original SuperOcean — a 200m dive watch designed for the emerging recreational scuba market. It was Breitling’s answer to the Rolex Submariner (1953) and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (1953), and while it never achieved the same cultural penetration, it was a serious tool watch respected by divers of the era.
The modern Superocean Heritage (launched 2007, redesigned 2022) revives that 1957 spirit with contemporary technology. It’s Breitling’s most refined sports watch — less aggressive than the Avenger, more heritage-driven than the Superocean, and equipped with one of the best outsourced movements in the industry.
The B20 Movement: Tudor Inside
The Superocean Heritage’s secret weapon is the Caliber Breitling 20 (B20) — which is, in fact, a Tudor MT5612 movement produced at Tudor’s Le Locle manufacture and supplied to Breitling under a cross-group agreement (both brands are part of the broader Swiss watch ecosystem, though not under the same ownership). The B20/MT5612 offers:
- 70-hour power reserve: Weekend-proof, among the best in the segment
- COSC certification: -4/+6 seconds per day guaranteed
- Silicon hairspring: Antimagnetic, temperature-stable
- Bidirectional winding: Efficient power generation from both rotation directions
This Tudor-sourced movement is widely considered superior to the ETA 2892 and Sellita SW300 movements used in many competing watches at this price point. It’s a genuine manufacture-grade caliber.
Current References
Superocean Heritage ’57 (42mm) — Ref. A10370
- Case: 42mm × 14.2mm, 316L steel
- Bezel: Ceramic, unidirectional, 60-minute scale
- Dial: Black, blue, silver, or rainbow (limited edition)
- Crystal: Sapphire, domed, AR-coated
- WR: 200m
- Bracelet: Mesh steel bracelet (the Heritage signature) or leather/rubber strap
- Retail: ~$5,300 (mesh) / ~$4,700 (strap)
Superocean Heritage ’57 Chronograph — Ref. A10320
- Movement: B01 (in-house automatic chronograph, 70-hour reserve)
- Case: 42mm × 15.1mm
- Retail: ~$8,800
The chronograph version uses Breitling’s own B01 — a column-wheel automatic chronograph developed entirely in-house. It’s the same caliber found in the Navitimer and Chronomat, placing the Heritage Chrono in serious horological company.
The Mesh Bracelet: Heritage’s Signature
The milanese mesh bracelet is the Superocean Heritage’s visual calling card. Modeled after the metal mesh straps used by military divers in the 1960s (before rubber straps became standard), the mesh gives the Heritage a vintage-military character that no other modern dive watch matches. The mesh conforms to the wrist like fabric, breathes in heat, and develops a soft patina over time.
The mesh bracelet is included with every Heritage — not an upcharge option. This is significant: comparable mesh bracelets from aftermarket suppliers cost $100-$300, and OEM mesh from other brands can be $500+.
Superocean Heritage vs Competition
| Watch | Size | Movement | Reserve | WR | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Breitling SOH ’57 | 42mm | B20 (Tudor MT5612) | 70h | 200m | $5,300 |
| Tudor Black Bay 58 | 39mm | MT5402 | 70h | 200m | $3,575 |
| Omega Seamaster 300M | 42mm | Cal. 8800 | 55h | 300m | $5,500 |
| Longines Legend Diver | 42mm | L888.5 | 72h | 300m | $2,525 |
| Oris Aquis Date | 41.5mm | Cal. 400 | 120h | 300m | $2,350 |
The Heritage occupies the middle ground: more premium than Tudor and Longines, less expensive than Omega, and visually distinctive thanks to the mesh bracelet. The B20 movement is a strong selling point — it’s mechanically identical to the Tudor movement that costs $3,575 in the BB58, here in a different (arguably more refined) package.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the mesh bracelet comfortable?
Very — the mesh conforms to wrist shape naturally and doesn’t trap heat like solid-link bracelets. It’s one of the most comfortable bracelet types in watchmaking. The only downside: arm hair can occasionally catch in the mesh links. Wearing the bracelet slightly loose (one finger-width of play) prevents this.
Can I swim with the Superocean Heritage?
Yes — 200m water resistance with a screw-down crown is more than adequate for swimming, snorkeling, and recreational diving. The mesh bracelet handles saltwater well (rinse with fresh water after ocean use).
Does Breitling hold value?
Breitling depreciates 25-35% from retail in the first 2-3 years, then stabilizes. The Superocean Heritage trades at $3,500-$4,200 pre-owned — excellent value for a COSC-certified diver with a Tudor-grade movement. Breitling is not a “flip” brand, but it’s a strong “buy and wear” brand.
Do you carry Superocean Heritage?
Browse our Breitling collection at DR.WATCH for Superocean Heritage and Navitimer references. Swiss automatic movements, mesh bracelets, and ceramic bezels. Free worldwide shipping + 1-year warranty.
