Ten years ago, suggesting a two-tone Rolex to a young collector would earn you a grimace. Rolesor — Rolex’s trademarked term for its steel-and-gold combination — was associated with 1980s Wall Street, Tom Selleck in Magnum P.I., and grandfathers’ Datejusts. By 2018, two-tone sports Rolex models sold at deep discounts. Fast-forward to 2026, and Rolesor is not just back — it’s one of the strongest-growing segments in the Rolex secondary market. Here’s why.
What Rolesor Actually Is
Rolex trademarked the term “Rolesor” in 1933, making it one of the brand’s oldest registered names — older than the Submariner, GMT-Master, or even the Oyster Perpetual line as we know it. The term refers specifically to a combination of 904L Oystersteel with either 18k yellow gold, 18k Everose (Rolex’s proprietary rose gold), or 18k white gold. Rolesor is NOT gold plating or PVD coating — it’s solid gold components mechanically bonded to steel sections of the watch.
The Four Modern Rolesors
- Yellow Rolesor: Steel + 18k yellow gold
- Everose Rolesor: Steel + 18k Everose gold (introduced 2005)
- White Rolesor: Steel case + 18k white gold bezel only (used on Datejust models)
- Full Gold or “Tridor”: Not technically Rolesor since it omits steel
A Brief History of the Rolesor Submariner
The first two-tone Submariner appeared in 1984 with reference 16803. It paired a steel case with a yellow gold bezel, crown, and center links. The reference 16613 followed in 1989 with sapphire crystal, and the 116613LN black-dial / 116613LB blue-dial lasted until 2020 when they were replaced by the current 126613LN and 126613LB. The 2020 refresh brought the Cerachrom bezel, Glidelock clasp, and caliber 3235 with 70-hour reserve.
Why Rolesor Lost Favor in 2010-2018
Three forces conspired against two-tone during the 2010s:
- Minimalism became the dominant watch aesthetic
- Steel sports Rolex prices exploded, pulling attention toward all-steel references
- Younger buyers associated gold with older generations
At one point in 2018, a brand new Rolesor Submariner 116613LB could be bought at an authorized dealer at retail — unheard of for any steel Submariner.
The 2026 Revival: What Changed
Four trends have pushed Rolesor back into the spotlight.
1. Steel Sports Rolex Scarcity
With steel Submariners and GMT-Masters still difficult to source and trading above retail, buyers who walk into an authorized dealer asking for a Submariner are increasingly offered the Rolesor variant, which is more readily available. What starts as a compromise often becomes a preferred purchase.
2. The “Old Money” Aesthetic
Social media trends around quiet luxury and “old money” fashion have rehabilitated the image of two-tone gold watches. A Datejust 41 Rolesor now reads as tasteful and heritage-oriented rather than flashy.
3. Gold Price Stability as a Hedge
With gold prices holding above $2,700/oz through early 2026, Rolesor watches have a built-in floor: the gold content alone on a two-tone Submariner represents $4,000-$6,000 of intrinsic value, which limits downside.
4. New Releases Rewarding Two-Tone Buyers
Rolex’s 2023 and 2024 releases featured striking new Rolesor configurations including the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold Rolesor, refreshed Everose Rolesor GMT-Master II 126711CHNR “Root Beer,” and the Datejust 36 with a mint green dial on a Jubilee bracelet — all of which sold out almost immediately.
Current Rolesor References and Prices (2026)
- Submariner Date 126613LN (black dial): Retail $15,900; gray market $18,500-$21,000
- Submariner Date 126613LB (blue dial): Retail $15,900; gray market $19,500-$22,500
- GMT-Master II 126711CHNR “Root Beer”: Retail $16,050; gray market $19,000-$24,000
- Datejust 41 126333 (yellow Rolesor, Jubilee): Retail $14,400; gray market $13,500-$16,500
- Yacht-Master 40 126621 (chocolate dial): Retail $15,900; gray market $15,500-$18,500
How to Style a Rolesor Watch
The biggest mistake new Rolesor owners make is over-accessorizing. Two-tone Rolex is already a statement — pairing it with a chunky gold ring, a thick gold chain, and a flashy belt buckle tips the look into caricature. The rule is simple: one gold element per outfit. Let the watch speak.
Considering your first Rolesor? Browse our Datejust collection, the Submariner collection, and the full Rolex lineup at DR.WATCH. For a primer on green-bezel Submariners, read our Hulk vs Kermit comparison.
FAQ
Is the gold on a Rolesor watch real?
Yes — 18k solid gold. Rolex does not use plating or vermeil on any Rolesor reference. The center links, bezel, and crown on a two-tone watch are cast solid gold.
Does Rolesor tarnish?
No. 18k gold is stable against oxidation and the steel sections are 904L, highly corrosion-resistant. Normal wear is limited to polishing scratches.
Can Rolesor be serviced normally?
Yes, and servicing costs are the same as all-steel equivalents. Gold components occasionally require replacement if deeply scratched, and those parts are more expensive.
What’s the cheapest modern Rolesor Rolex?
The Lady-Datejust 28 reference 279173 retails around $10,900, making it the most affordable current production Rolesor watch.
